Day: June 24, 2016

The Old Man of Hoy

24 June

 

5 miles on bike, 6 miles walking, 4 miles on Ferry- all sightseeing!

 

We woke up in the tent on the fantastic beach at Rathwick- We had no mobile signal but Martin was able to get onto the radio to find out the referendum result. We feel this result is going to be a catastrophe for our wonderful people and beautiful country and we have been preoccupied and subdued thinking about it all day. It will certainly change all our futures (and more importantly that of our children and grandchildren). It makes our current project feel somewhat insignificant compared to what awaits the UK as we head over a precipice into unknown waters ahead. The Scots we have talked to today have no doubt that Scottish independence is inevitable- even those that opposed it previously. Tourists from abroad find it hard to understand why this has happened.

Early morning mist over Hoy

Early morning mist over Hoy

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We had to get back up the rough track from the bothy to the road- the gate involved heaving bikes over it without luggage but we were soon on our way walking to the Old Man- past an interesting museum in the old crofts about the local history- Rathwick had a school for both boys and girls as early as 1718 , quite an achievement in such a poor community.

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The old school

 

We walked over the headland on a well made track courtesy of the RSPB and arrived at the Old Man- unusually even more spectacular than we had been led to believe. Martin had always had an ambition to climb the iconic classic route up the pillar but having seen it up close the sandstone does not look attractive to climb anyway, also joints mean that pretty much our climbing days are behind us and we will stick to cycling.

Inside the old school

Inside the old school

Turf roofed dwelling

Turf roofed dwelling

Old Man of Hoy

Old Man of Hoy

The Old Man sticks up over the skyline as you approach

The Old Man sticks up over the skyline as you approach

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lovely colours of plants and sea

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Sandstone cliffs

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The walk back was followed by a brief cycle over the island,

Ferns

Ferns

P1090844-1600x1200we had time to call in and visit local author John Aberdein who we had met yesterday and had kindly invited us to call in for a cup of tea. We were worried about leaving soon enough to catch the ferry but he assured us that we would see it approaching as his house has a stunning view over the Hoy Sound. We had a fascinating wide reaching chat but alas had to cycle off  to catch the boat, such an interesting encounter- among many other things John was the the first person to kayak around the North coast of Scotland way back in 1970s and was very understanding of the issues of a long trip , ours however is much less adventurous than his.

 

We are back on mainland Orkney tonight with a signal, still trying to come to turns with yesterdays outcome, we fear that many of the consequences cannot be predicted .

Stromness

Stromness

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Over to Hoy

Ring of Brodgar

23 June

26 miles (sightseeing not really part of Scilly to Shetland)

400m

 

over to Hoy

 

We set off from Kirkwall, via the builders merchants- for a supply of meths for our small stove.

The plan was to get to the archaeology sites before the tour busses arrived- in fact we never saw any coaches all day.

Cycling through mainland Orkney

Cycling through mainland Orkney

Gayle has always wanted a greenhouse, this gave Martin an idea ...

Gayle has always wanted a greenhouse, this gave Martin an idea …

This made us laugh

This made us laugh

Cycling through mainland Orkney

Cycling through mainland Orkney

Cycling through mainland Orkney

Cycling through mainland Orkney

The route took us along the North side of Scapa Flow and then over some small hills to visit the Ring of Brodgar- a huge stone circle and ditch from c 5000 years ago – hugely impressive.

Ring of Brodgar

Ring of Brodgar

Ring of Brodgar

Ring of Brodgar

It is set in quite special way within it’s landscape, within a ring of water made by 2 lakes and surrounded by a natural amphitheatre of low hills.

Hoy hills from Ring of Brodgar

Hoy hills from Ring of Brodgar

Causeway between the lakes

Causeway between the lakes

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We then went to Maeshowe nearby, a Neolithic tomb brilliantly preserved with dry stone walls beautifully made with great skill. In addition to the dramatic structure itself there were Runes left by a party of Vikings who entered the tomb in the 12th century and took shelter, they also left a beautiful carving- the Maeshowe Dragon. The very eloquent guide who took us around decribed them as Neolithic Twitter as the content is at times rude, funny or boastful. Unfortunately photos were not allowed but it is well worth looking up on google to see pictures of the interior.

Maeshowe from outside

Maeshowe from outside

We were relieved to get a message from Gayle’s mum that she done our proxy votes, such an important day.

The sea is such beautiful colours

The sea is such beautiful colours

P1090828-1600x1200We then set off for Stromness to catch the small ferry over to Hoy , a small island to the West of Orkney where we plan to camp and walk to see the Old Man of Hoy. The ferry trip was beautiful and enlivened by meeting John Aberdein a hugely interesting local writer, teacher and politician.

In Stromness harbour

In Stromness harbour

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Great Auk, lots of them

We cycled over the island through a wild valley and down to the small settlement of Rackwick, an old crofting community on a wild piece of coast.

On the way to Rackwick

On the way to Rackwick

On the way to Rackwick

On the way to Rackwick

This crag has sea eagles nesting, we patienty waited but they did not oblige

This crag has sea eagles nesting, we patienty waited but they did not oblige

The track to the Bothy

The track to the Bothy

Rackwick bay

Rackwick bay

We camped outside the Bothy on the beach – free and well looked after by the Hoy trust.

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The evening was spent sat on the beach enjoying this magical place, watching the waves , birds and seals.

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Cooking supper at the bothy

Cooking supper at the bothy

DSCF3531-1600x1200No signal tonight so we will post tomorrow, but more importantly we wont know the result of the momentous referendum until back on the mainland Orkney tomorrow

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