21st June 2016
Scotland at its best
20 June
45 miles
Climbing 512m
Total so far 1077 miles
We thought today would be a great ride and it exceeded our expectations- a very quiet road through some great scenery- mountains moors, lochs and big skies and the afternoon was mainly downhill and flat with the wind behind us- what’s not to like?
We had a proper breakfast at the Highland Hotel in Lairg where we retreated last night – even feeling hungry could only manage the “Half a full Scottish Breakfast” , then set off on one of the quietest A roads in the UK- single track with passing places and only a handful of cars each hour , but not too steep and with a nice surface which makes all the difference on a bike.
Our plan was to stop at the only point of sustenance in about 25 miles- the Crask Inn which we had heard much about before we arrived. When we arrived at the hamlet of Crask you can’t miss it- there are two buildings: the Inn and a bothy they run beside it. It must be the loneliest inn in Britain- nothing for miles around and very little passing traffic, no mains services ( a generator when it gets dark and peat fire for heating).
We had a very warm welcome and great coffee- whilst we were there they had a fair stream of customers- a high percentage of people travelling the road seem to stop and many of them know the owners well. The couple who own it …….. run the Inn, a bunkhouse/ bothy next door, farm the surrounding land with sheep and cattle and also look after a mountain bothy in the nearby hills- very resilient. In addition they have a church service in the back room once a month as it is so far for local farmers to travel to established churches. Unfortunately they are looking to sell the Inn for health reasons- quite a challenge for someone to take on.
We met someone starting their end to end , on his second day from John o’Groats – he warned us about the gradients tomorrow once we reach the North coast.
We had a choice of routes- either continue on the “main”road or take a smaller road off along Loch Never to Bettyhill. Both looks really nice but at the Inn they said that the smaller road was particularly nice- and had less climbing- quite a bonus. We followed the long loch and had lunch sat beside it- beautiful scenery and lots of flowers: orchids, thyme, some early heather, thistles just starting, foxgloves coming into their own and many others. For once the wind was behind us and the flat sections felt very easy going.
Interesting information boards about the local history, the old clans and the effect of the clearances. Many Victorians praised the local landlords for the ‘improvement’ of their lands which in fact was achieved by the brutal eviction of whole communities of crofters to make way for sheep. When the Countess of Sutherland wished to raise men for the Forces during the evictions,many refused saying ‘if they value sheep more than men, then let sheep defend them!
Eventually we reached the coast and were immediately made aware of it as the steep ups and downs kicked in for the last couple of miles
We are on a small campsite at Bettyhill looking out over a bay with a beautiful beach .
No internet connection again tonight so we will post this when we get signal tomorrow.
You look cold cooking supper in the rain!
I wonder how it is going today.
I hope you won’t gets seasick on the ferry across to Orkney!
D/G
Fantastic! Keep it going guys you’re nearly there.
A&C
I follow your Blog avidly, and enjoy your pictures and text……details as well as the wide scenes and people. Well done to be on the coast now. I know you have to keep to the cycleable route, but I wonder if you might be able to watch gannets diving at some point…M/P..
I am reading your blog tonight while recovering from our Tuesday club ride to Longnor, a rather lumpy 5000ft in 60 miles, but your trip is awe inspiring and makes our efforts today seem trivial.
I have enjoyed reading your blog and looking at the pictures .Well done, full of admiration for you both, by the time you read this you will probably be almost at the end of our Island nation, I wish you both Bon voyage and a safe crossing to Orkney and then Shetland look forward to talking to you on your return to Chesterfield.
Well Done from a fellow Spire Rider
Hi Mick, good to hear from you. Not many of the hills as tough as the peak District except those in Cornwall. All those winter rides with the Spire made a huge difference on the tough days. See you in July
Regards
Glad to hear you enjoyed Orkney and that you took a little extra time off. It is an. Exciting place for birds and also for all sorts of artists who have made their home here. It was the home of Sir Peter Maxwell Davies and if you had been later n the year you would have coincided with a major music festival with music written especially for the local choir.
I expect you will have noticed the Norse influence.
I shal be interested to know of the similarities and contrasts with Shetland.
Hope it is a smooth night!
Love
DG